To celebrate turning 50, we visited Crete. We started in the western corner of Old Town, Chania. I loved this small harbor. I read that there was a pottery who makes jars as tall as me. These jars were made by a 73 year old man in the hills. It was difficult finding his studio. But we did!! His name was Nikos Kavgalakis. I met his daughter who said that he only makes the large jars in the summer months so that the pot will set up properly when adding coils to it. There were hundreds of these large, large jars.